Positano and Capri, Italy (Mostly Food) Travel Guide
By Bianca Milov.
It’s hard to imagine more picturesque places than Positano and Capri, Italy. With their storybook homes perched steeply on mountains in the Amalfi Coast, it feels like a dream come to life. I’ve seen hundreds of photos, but seeing it in person is awe-inspiring! It’s been on my travel list for years and lucky for me, a close friend got married in Tuscany this May, giving me the perfect excuse to hop on a train with friends and explore the Italian coastal paradise. Thanks to my injured ankle from a fall a few days earlier in Florence, we had to adjust a few of our sightseeing plans, so our trip revolved mainly around food—much like my everyday life—which did not disappoint, to say the least!
Since we were a group of six, we forwent the traditional hotel route and decided to rent a villa (found on booking.com!) After our late train to Naples and one-hour car ride, we were dropped off at our beautiful Villa Graziella high in the mountains of Positano in Montepertuso. When we arrived, were treated to an eight-course traditional Amalfi meal, home cooked by our hosts that included local vegetables, fish, meat, pasta, pizza—the list goes on! We finished dinner with an Amalfi lemon cake—honestly one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. It was a perfect way to start our adventure. The villa, while far from the center of town, was well-equipped with a pool, huge terrace overlooking Positano, an indoor and outdoor kitchen, chicken farm (fresh eggs every day!), olive trees and four bedrooms. The hosts, Clementina and her husband, were beyond gracious. They went grocery shopping for us, helped us with getting around town, and even brought us a snack from their restaurant one evening. I highly recommend staying here if you’re looking for a more authentic Positano experience!
Address: Via Monsignor Saverio Cinque 62, 84017 Positano, Italy
Conveniently located in the center of town, down a flight of stairs, is Ristorante Max, a hidden homey eatery. In the summer months, I recommend being seated in the beautiful outdoor garden. With classic Italian music gently playing the background, it is an ideal setting for a quintessential Italian meal. After a few bottles of wine, we ordered what were the most memorable dishes of the trip. The highlights were the zucchini blossoms (lightly fried zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese—my new favorite food) and the trittico di pasta fresche (a trio of three different types of pastas, all equally delicious). This is a perfect spot for a date or a group. And bonus—like many restaurants in Positano—they offer lunchtime cooking classes!
Address: Piazza dei Mulini, 22, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Located in the mountains of Positano in Montepertuso, Il Ritrovo is truly a neighborhood gem. The view from the hilltop restaurant is incredible—you can see all of Montepertuso, Positano and the sea. Although we were a large group, it is incredibly romantic and I can imagine, the perfect spot for a honeymoon meal. We again ordered almost the entire menu, but my favorites were the zucchini blossoms (this becomes a pattern!) as well as the pasta della tradizione Ritrovo (sausage and mushrooms in pink sauce—their speciality). With the delicious food, beautiful view and ambiance, this place is a cannot miss in Positano.
Address: Via Montepertuso, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Another beautiful restaurant high up in the Montepertuso mountains is La Tagliata. This restaurant is definitely a carnivore’s dream. They are famous for their huge selection of perfectly grilled meat. We ordered the beef, chicken, rabbit and veal—my favorite being the rabbit. For vegetarians, they have many options including (surprisingly delicious) beans and a variety of vegetable plates. Everything is served family style and they truly make you feel at home.
Address: Via Monsignor Vito Talamo, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Conca del Sogno
Accessible by boat, Conca del Sogno is a beautiful beachside restaurant (as well as a bed and breakfast). We arrived after a day at sea and were greeted with tequila shots by the friendly staff who went above and beyond for us (when we requested some music they put the speaker on our table and let us play DJ!). Known for their fresh seafood, we dined on tartare, mussels, zucchini blossoms (obviously) and a variety of seafood pastas. A highlight of the meal was the small pepper plant they had on the table where you can cut your own spicy peppers to add to your dish. Each dish was better than the next and the meal was a cherry on top of a perfect day. On Instagram.
Address: Via Amerigo Vespucci, 25, 80061 Massa Lubrense NA, Italy
One of our first stops we made in Positano was Franco’s Bar for early evening drinks. It is a somewhat new addition located in the gorgeous Le Sirenuse Hotel. The view of Positano from the outdoor bar is unbeatable and the drinks were perfectly made (what is it about Italy that makes you order an Aperol Spritz wherever you go)? The music selection is great and it was hard to tear us away for dinner. While there are mostly tourists, you definitely won’t mind with the view and the perfectly decorated terrace. On Instagram.
Address: Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Music on the Rocks
Music on the Rocks is a cliffside club located right on the water by the famous Positano beach. Built into a cliff with cave features throughout, it definitely lives up to its name. We came on a Tuesday, so it was a bit tame, but nonetheless, everyone was dancing and we had a blast. It’s a perfect way to end the night and dance off all that pasta. On Instagram.
Address: Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
(Spiaggia Grande) Positano Beach
The beach with millions of google images and that perfect view of the hilltop home of Positano does not disappoint. The view is breathtaking—it truly feels like it’s right out of a storybook. While we arrived in the mid-afternoon, there were still plenty of chairs where we were provided friendly food and drink service from any of the many restaurants that line the beach. It’s a perfect way to spend a day in Positano and check off your bucket list!
Address: Piazza Flavio Gioia, Positano, Italy
L’uomo il Mare
We used this incredible company for our private day boat charter. We boarded the boat in the morning for our full day at sea. They allowed us to customize where we wanted to go on the fly with guidance from our awesome captain, Fausto. We cruised around Capri and up and down the Amalfi coast. While many boats were waiting in hour-long lines to see the Blue Grotto, Fausto took us off the beaten path and showed us his favorite hidden beaches, snorkeling spots and caves. A boat tour in the Amalfi coast is truly once in a lifetime experience worth having. Email for inquiries.
Our home for our short stay in Capri was Villa Mariuccia, located on the famous Via Tragara. The villa was perfectly situated near the center of Capri with gorgeous views of the island and the sea. We had plenty of space, which included a terrace (insane views found here!), kitchen, three bedrooms, living room and dining room. It was perfectly decorated in the Capri island style, and while there were no traditional hotel amenities, it’s location on Via Tragara, which allowed for quick and easy access to everything Capri has to offer (beaches, food and shopping!). On Instagram.
Address: Via Tragara, 45, 80073 Capri NA, Italy
Our first night in Capri brought us to the famous Aurora (reservations highly recommended), known for their insanely delicious, super-thin crust pizza. The restaurant is small but the food, like everywhere we ate, was delicious—the pizza of course being the highlight. Somehow in the middle of dinner, we were invited to an Italian birthday dance party, which we happily participated in. The pizza was so good that we got a few pies to go, which we shamelessly finished on the walk home. On Instagram.
Address: Via Fuorlovado, 18, 80073 Capri NA, Italy
For our second night, we ate at the acclaimed Terrazza Brunella, conveniently located across the street from our villa. Like most places on Capri, it is incredibly romantic (I think we were the only non-couple group on the island!), with a beautiful view. My favorite dishes were the vegetable pie and the lemon risotto. Capri is famous for their huge lemons, which are delicious and inspire many of the dishes.
Address: Via Tragara, 24, 80073 Capri NA, Italy
Anema e Core
Anema e Core is hands-down, one of the highlights of the trip. Located in the heart of the main village, with its inconspicuous entrance, you’d never know what fun was waiting for you inside. The set up consists of an old-school live band lead by the infamous singer, Guido, and an open dance floor flanked by tables. The crowd is a mix of young and old (fun fact: Jay-Z and Beyonce joined the party on their last trip to Capri!) who really let loose! Guido and the band had the whole place dancing the night away on tables and chairs.
Address: Via Sella Orta, 1, 80076 Capri NA, Italy
La Fontelina Beach Club was recommended by everyone we spoke to who has visited the Island. You have to call a few days in advanced to reserve your spot, which is well worth it. While I was able to hobble along most places with my ankle, the walk to La Fontelina really tested my mental strength! It is about a half-mile walk down a steep hill (the whole walk down I was wondering how I was going to get back up!). But when we arrived, the view and the ocean made me forget all my troubles. We grabbed a spot cliffside and basked in the sun for a few hours with a few bottles of rosé. When you make a reservation for chairs, you also make one for lunch, which was fresh and delicious. My favorite items were the seafood pasta and surprisingly, the french fries! La Fontelina truly feels like what being in Capri is all about. I could have spent every day there! On Instagram.
Address: Via Faraglioni, 2, 80073 Capri NA, Italy
These incredible days in Positano and Capri definitely left me wanting more! While I didn’t get to explore as many sites as I had planned (thanks, ankle!), we definitely did not disappoint in the eating and drinking department! Everywhere we went exceeded our expectations and I cannot wait to go back and explore more of what the beautiful coast has to offer.
Bianca Milov is the founder and creative director at Bianca Milov Jewelry. She is a lover of travel and experiencing new cultures; her favorite aspects being nature and cuisine. She loves to take inspiration from her travels and implement them into her designs. You can shop her designs at www.biancamilov.com. Next up you can find her in Berlin! Follow Bianca @bmilov and her jewelry shop @biancamilovjewelry on Instagram.
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